My relationship with eggs is a Facebook status:
It’s complicated.
And like many a well-documented social media bond, my affair with eggs has always been mercurial and overly sensitive to the delicate shadings of status updates.
Today, I’m a fan of eggs of all sorts – boiled, deviled, poached and even shirred. But it’s been a tempestuous affair.
It all started as a child when cousin Johnny and I could happily divide a boiled egg (he the white, I the yolk) until one day, without warning, poof! The love was gone. I was done. Just done. In an instant, even quicker than Tayor Swift can sing, “Never, ever, ever,” my egg splitting days were over. I don’t know that there was a reason, but, while I continued to hang out with Johnny, the egg and I were over.
Much later, after a late and very merry night, friend Ann made us a boiled egg and toast as a buffer against our indulgence. It was a medium boiled egg, crunchy with kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper eaten in succession with bites of good bread, well-toasted and slathered with rich, Normandy butter. Heaven. A perfectly textured nibble, generously endowed with my favorite treats (salt and fat), it rekindled an old flame burning in my heart. For years, even long after I abandoned besotted evenings about town, that egg service has remained my favorite snack: we were reunited and it tasted so good!
Despite that reconciliation, my prejudice against deviled eggs persisted even longer. It may have a been a lingering and unpleasant memory of limp and tepid examples from church socials where the yolks were so pale and pasty that not even a sprinkle of tasteless grocery-brand paprika could enliven their visual appeal. First impressions are strong, and this one endured until only a few years ago. The change transpired at a family Thanksgiving when my new favorite aunt presented a plate of eggs stuffed with a deep yellow yolk flecked with parsley and garnished with a half a green olive on top. In moment, better far than a metaphor can ever, ever be, I wasn’t just in love – the egg was love: Delicious, simple but well considered, and pleasing to all the senses.
That, of course, is the truth of all great food loves – a good eat is a well-rounded appeal to at least 4 senses (and sometimes all five if there’s a sizzle involved). And that’s exactly what this recipe for deviled eggs has going for it. The addition of a little sriracha deepens the color of the stuffing and puts a little of the devil in it too, giving both the eyes and the tongue a treat. Red onion adds some texture and capers, with a little punch from Dijon, bring a refreshing savor for the aroma and the taste too. But, of course, all these elements perfectly frame the rich and smoky flavor of the salmon which also affixes a luxurious silkiness to each bite.
It’s a festive deviled egg to be sure, but it’s just the right kind of celebratory for the Fourth July or any gathering with the people you love. That’s the real reason we spend time in the kitchen – it’s a palpable way to show our love, and a good recipe makes it a palatable and enduring affection, too.
Tomato Head’s Smoked Salmon, Red Onion and Caper Deviled Eggs
6 large eggs
3 TBL Mayonnaise
1 TBL Dijon Mustard
1 TBL red onion, chopped fine
1 TBL capers, chopped
2 TBL Smoked Salmon, chopped fine
1 tsp sriracha
1/8 tsp salt
¼ tsp black pepper
Boil eggs for 10 -11 minutes. Remove the eggs from the hot water and place in an ice bath. Peel the eggs then cut them in half lengthwise and gently remove the yolks, keeping the whites intact.
Place the yolks in a small bowl. With a fork mash the yolks with the mayonnaise and mustard until smooth and creamy. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well.
Fill the egg whites with the yolk mixture. Cool for 1-2 hours and serve chilled.